What is Sustainable Fashion?

Sustainable fashion, commonly known as slow fashion, focuses on designing and purchasing clothing that reduces environmental damage while prioritizing workers’ rights. Unlike fast fashion, which churns out inexpensive garments quickly, contributing to ecological harm and social injustices, sustainable fashion takes a different path. This eco-friendly approach evaluates a garment’s full lifecycle – from ethical material sourcing to responsible disposal – promoting long-lasting, ethical practices that benefit both the planet and its people.

Why It Matters

The fashion industry is a major polluter, second only to oil, and is responsible for about 5% to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. It also often involves poor working conditions, with many workers underpaid and overworked. Sustainable fashion seeks to reduce these impacts, promoting a healthier planet and fairer labor practices.

Key Aspects of Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion focuses on reducing environmental impact through thoughtful choices in materials, production, and lifecycle management.

Material Selection

• Natural Fibers: Materials like organic cotton, bamboo, and hemp are eco-friendly. Organic cotton uses less water and fewer pesticides, bamboo grows quickly without pesticides, and hemp is naturally resistant to pests and requires minimal resources.
• Recycled Materials: Recycled polyester, made from plastic bottles, helps reduce waste and carbon emissions, though it still releases microplastics.
• Innovative Materials: Alternatives like Piñatex (made from pineapple leaves) and mushroom-based fabrics offer sustainable options by repurposing waste and avoiding animal products.

Production Processes

• Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting: This technique minimizes fabric waste by arranging pattern pieces efficiently, as traditional cutting methods can waste significant amounts of fabric. Some designers use deconstructed textiles to maximize material use.
• Ethical Manufacturing: Sustainable brands prioritize fair wages, safe working conditions, and environmentally friendly practices.

Environmental Impact of the Fashion Industry

Water Usage & Pollution – Fashion consumes 79–215 trillion liters of water yearly, with toxic dyes polluting rivers and harming ecosystems.

Greenhouse Gas Emissions – The industry generates 8–10% of global CO₂ emissions, surpassing aviation and shipping combined.

Waste Generation – 85% of textiles (92M tonnes) are discarded yearly, with fast fashion accelerating landfill waste and garment overproduction.

Microplastic Pollution – Synthetic fabrics shed microplastics, making up 35% of ocean pollution and harming marine life.

Deforestation – 70–100M trees are cut annually for fabrics like viscose, threatening forests, biodiversity, and ecosystems.

Key Materials in Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion involves several practices aimed at reducing its footprint. One key aspect is the use of eco-friendly materials, which are sourced or produced with minimal environmental impact. Below is a table summarizing some common sustainable materials and their benefits:

However, controversies exist, particularly with bamboo. While it’s marketed as eco-friendly due to its fast growth and low water needs, some processing methods involve chemicals that can negate these benefits. Consumers are encouraged to look for certifications like GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) or transparency from brands to ensure authenticity.

Sustainable Brands and Their Eco-Friendly Practices

International Fashion Brands

1. H&M (Conscious Collection)

What They Do: H&M, a leading global fast-fashion brand, has introduced its Conscious Collection in India, featuring clothing made from sustainable materials.

How: The Conscious Collection utilizes organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel to reduce water consumption and carbon emissions. Notably, their “Bionic” dress is crafted from recycled plastic bottles. H&M also encourages circular fashion by promoting garment recycling programs across India.

2. Zara (Join Life)

What They Do: Zara’s Join Life collection, available in India, emphasizes sustainable fabrics and ethical production practices.

How: The collection incorporates organic cotton, recycled materials, and low-impact production techniques. Zara has pledged to ensure that 100% of its collections are sustainable by 2025, reinforcing its commitment to greener practices within the Indian market.

3. Adidas (Collaboration with Parley for the Oceans)

What They Do: Adidas has introduced its eco-friendly initiatives to India through its collaboration with Parley for the Oceans, transforming ocean plastic waste into performance sportswear.

How: By repurposing plastic waste collected from oceans, Adidas produces high-performance shoes and activewear. This initiative aligns with India’s increasing demand for sustainable athleisure, helping to reduce environmental harm while promoting responsible consumption.

4. Levi’s (WaterLess Technology)

What They Do: Levi’s, a globally recognized denim brand, has implemented its Water<Less technology in the jeans sold in India.

How: This innovative production method reduces water usage in denim manufacturing by up to 96% compared to conventional processes. Additionally, Levi’s integrates recycled cotton and promotes durable, timeless designs to encourage long-term use and minimize waste.

5. Stella McCartney

What They Do: Although Stella McCartney has a limited presence in India, the luxury brand is widely known for its unwavering commitment to sustainability and vegan fashion.

How: Available through select retailers, Stella McCartney avoids leather and fur, instead using innovative materials such as recycled polyester and organic cotton. The brand’s emphasis on ethical luxury resonates with India’s growing eco-conscious consumer base.

Indian Fashion Brands

6. Fabindia

What They Do: Fabindia, a renowned Indian brand, connects rural artisans to urban markets, emphasizing handwoven textiles and organic materials.

How: Utilizing organic cotton and traditional techniques like block printing and embroidery, Fabindia promotes slow fashion and fair trade. Their timeless designs encourage durability, reducing the fast fashion cycle while supporting artisan livelihoods.

7. No Nasties

What They Do: No Nasties, a Goa-based brand, leads in organic and fair-trade clothing, focusing exclusively on 100% organic cotton.

How: Employing a local supply chain to minimize carbon emissions, they use plastic-free packaging and plant trees per purchase to offset environmental impact. Their minimalist designs cater to eco-conscious consumers prioritizing sustainability.

8. Doodlage

What They Do: Doodlage pioneers upcycling in India, transforming fabric scraps and deadstock into contemporary clothing and accessories.

How: With a zero-waste approach, they craft limited-edition pieces from leftover materials sourced from larger manufacturers. This reduces textile waste and champions circular fashion in the Indian market.

9. Anita Dongre (Grassroot)

What They Do: Anita Dongre’s Grassroot line celebrates Indian craftsmanship while integrating sustainable practices into high-fashion designs.

How: Using organic cotton, Tencel, and natural dyes, Grassroot collaborates with artisans to preserve techniques like hand-weaving. The brand ensures fair wages, blending cultural heritage with environmental responsibility.

10. B Label (Bombay Hemp Company)

What They Do: B Label, under the Bombay Hemp Company, creates minimalist clothing using hemp, a sustainable and carbon-negative fiber.

How: Hemp’s low water and pesticide needs make it eco-friendly, while B Label’s durable designs promote longevity. This approach positions them as a forward-thinking sustainable brand in India.

Certifications and Standards

Certifications play a vital role in verifying sustainability claims, addressing concerns like greenwashing. Key certifications include:

• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS): Ensures the use of organic fibers and environmentally friendly processing, covering the entire supply chain.
• Fair Trade Certified: Guarantees fair wages and safe working conditions, focusing on social sustainability.
• Bluesign: Focuses on environmentally friendly production processes, reducing water, energy, and chemical use.
• Oeko-Tex Standard 100: Ensures materials are safe and non-toxic, free from harmful substances.
• Cradle to Cradle Certified: Promotes products designed for a circular economy, ensuring they can be reused or biodegraded.

These certifications, as mentioned in Sustainable Jungle: 31 Sustainable Fabrics, help consumers identify genuine sustainable products, with examples like Bananatex® holding Cradle to Cradle® Gold certification.

Challenges in Sustainable Fashion

Cost: The Price of Sustainability

Sustainable fashion tends to be more expensive due to several factors:

• Ethical Sourcing and Fair Wages: Brands that pay fair wages and provide safe working conditions have higher production costs.
• Sustainable Materials: Organic cotton and bamboo cost more due to eco-friendly farming methods.
• Small-Scale Production: Unlike mass-produced fast fashion, sustainable brands often manufacture in smaller batches, increasing per-unit costs.
• Certifications: Obtaining certifications like GOTS or Fair Trade requires investment, adding to the price.

A practical example is a sustainable T-shirt costing $30, compared to a fast fashion version at $5. However, the sustainable option lasts longer, making it a better long-term investment.

Accessibility: Expanding Sustainable Fashion

Although sustainable fashion is growing, it remains less accessible due to higher prices and limited availability. However, several options make it more attainable:

• Secondhand Shopping: Platforms like Depop and ThredUp provide affordable, eco-friendly alternatives.
• Rental Services: Companies like Rent the Runway allow customers to rent clothing, reducing the need for new purchases.
• Affordable Sustainable Brands: Some brands, like Ninety Percent, aim to bridge the gap between fast fashion and luxury sustainability.

While progress is being made, challenges remain, especially in sourcing sustainable materials for fast-growing markets.

Greenwashing: Avoiding Misleading Claims

Many brands market themselves as sustainable without actually following ethical or eco-friendly practices. To avoid being misled, consumers should:

• Check for transparency in supply chains.
• Look for third-party certifications like GOTS or Fair Trade.
• Use tools like brand rating systems to verify sustainability claims.
• Be cautious of vague terms like “eco-friendly” without clear evidence.